8/12/2023 0 Comments Yo yo mini motrix modsWait ten minutes until the adhesive is touch dry, then bring the veneer and case together and press firmly all over to ensure good contact, particularly around the edges. This can be a messy process, so wear gloves and ensure you have excellent ventilation. You'll need to allow the glue to dry after each stage, then trim and sand, so this will take a while.įor each stage, apply a thin coat of contact adhesive to both the case and the "inner" (paler) side of the veneer. Proceed in stages, applying first the rear layer, then the two sides, then the top, and finally the front. You may also choose to add veneer to the bottom edge. In the rear piece, make a hole just big enough for the power connector to fit through in roughly the right place. Hold it securely for a few seconds and you're done.Ĭut the veneer into pieces large enough to cover each of the front, back, top and sides of the case, with a decent margin around the edge (say, 1cm). Once that's in, make sure the connections to the matrix are secure, place a thin line of superglue along the fin of the base, then slide the base into the main body. If you struggle to get it through the hole, just open it up a little with a knife. The lugs on the jack should be bent at right angles, and you may need to gently open the case up a little to fit the jack in. Gently poke it with a screwdriver whilst applying pressure to the matrix and you should find it slides in okay. As you slide it in you might find it catches - often this is because one of more LEDs has wedged itself in one of the case holes. If you're struggling, try curving the short ends of the matrix very slightly. It's something of a tight fit (perhaps I should have allowed a little more space!) but it will fit with a little gentle persuasion. Now slide the LED matrix into the main part of the case. Check that the Micro-USB connection is accessible from the bottom of the case. You'll need a couple of small self tapping screws - I scavanged mine from some defunct equipment they're quite common for mounting PCBs in things like kids toys. To assemble, start by screwing the ESP8266 board onto the base. I haven't used them here, but would suggest at least using the decoupling capacitor.Īt this point I'd would skip ahead and program the ESP8266 to check that everything works as expected, before continuing with the assembly. There is some advice on the internet (e.g.) that suggests using a decoupling capacitor on the matrix, and adding a resistor between the ESP8266 and the matrix control wire. I used 90 degree headers on the ESP8266 to make soldering it together easier, with heatshrink to keep everything neat. The only other connection is the single wire control signal from the ESP8266 to the matrix. This allows the final design to be powered from a single jack, but means that when programming the ESP8266 over USB we don't pass power from USB to the matrix (which can easily draw >4A, far beyond the limit of the USB connection). Power is also supplied from the jack to the ESP8266 board via the diode. Because the matrix is quite large I supply power at all three of the available points (input, output and middle of the matrix). We wire power from the DC jack directly into the matrix. The circuit is relatively straightforward. Sandpaper of a couple of different grits (around 120 and 200).Polyurethane wood varnish (I used one coat of Yacht varnish and two of clear).2A is probably adequate in practice, but I prototyped with an 8A supply (after my original one blew up when the brightness went too high!). I'd suggest a good quality 4A supply with over-current protection, but it depends on how bright you want the display.
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